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IPE        the "IRONWOOD"Ipe pronounced (ee-pay) also called Pau Lope, is an ironwood. So named because of it's incredible hardness or density. This species comes from central and South America. Many times harder than oak or Teak and extremely resistant to rot, decay and insects, and even fire, no other material will outlast Ipe. Dark olive brown in color with an oily appearance and no knots even with no sealer  this wood will remain smooth and splinter free!! Ipe provides less tooth for mildew growth then other materials and is stain resistant.

"For the ultimate outdoor deck material Ipe can not be matched!"

Ipe's incredibly tight grain makes it impervious to water.

Boards have been in place for 26 years with no signs of decay.

Actual fire rating similar to steel.

read our ipe report

 

Ever wish you could have a Teak deck? Now you can have

an even better, tougher deck with Ipe the ironwood, actually

twice as dense and durable as Teak

Check out some of the exciting Ipe projects we have built! 

       

     

     

      

      

Sealing or Oiling Ipe Decks:

Ipe is incredibly dense and as such will only absorb a small amount of oil at any one application. As such there is no "one-coat" solution in our opinion. If you were to apply to much oil or sealer at one time it would just pool up and not be absorbed. It is best to build up several distinct coats over time. We apply the thorough "wet on wet" couple of initial coats right after sanding, being careful to not over do it. the deck then needs to "season" a bit (maybe a few weeks or months) then another light coat applied, repeat this light coat approach until deck surface is fully saturated. 3 or 4 light coats in the first year or two is not uncommon depending on your environment. (full sun exposure, especially with lots of reflective glass tends to cook out the oil quicker). Once the wood in completely saturated with oil it is more about touching up.

Application: applying the oil is very easy and can be spayed, (inexpensive pump sprayers work well) rolled, brushed or even ragged on. There is hardly a need to keep a "wet edge" and really the only concern to too much material and/or puddling, which can be handled by back brushing or back rolling. Although, there is little worry about hurting finish by walking on the newly oiled deck, a couple days of drying time is recommended so you do not track in oil on your shoes.

Decision to Oil:

Ipe is one of the rare materials that needs not finish to hold up outdoors, and from a "maintenance free" or "low maintenance" point of view, no oiling are necessary or just maybe a very light preliminary coat . The wood will weather to a beautiful splinter free silver patina rather quickly, as Ipe is so dense, only the surface of the wood weathers with no penetration into the wood (evident when the deck gets wet and looks wood colored again), as such Ipe is easily sanded back to like new as you do not have to sand deep.

Most people when they see Ipe with some oil on it remark how beautifully striking and elegant the wood looks and want to preserve that look. Although not a difficult process it does take several light distinct coats of sealer to get a good finish, and some touching up here and there afterwards, with some locations (total sun all the time, lots of reflective glass) requiring more attention .

  

   

note: white railings are solid vinyl lumber

goes without saying, but all decks are framed with PT #1 treated lumber

                       Ipe is considered the ultimate outdoor wood and the best material for a deck.

We have been working with Ipe for many years and developed proven methods and techniques for working with the incredibly durable wood.

Ipe is very difficult to cut, route and fasten because of its incredible hardness.  This makes Ipe the most labor intensive material. Each board must first be end sealed after each cut. Each screw hole must be counter drilled and pilot drilled before each screw is applied. Even  the shear weight of the material comes into factor.

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